James Halliday 96
Each of the '16 Giant Steps Chardonnays were vinified in exactly the same way (wild-fermented in French puncheons, 20% new, no battonage, matured for 10 months), each bottled 23 Jan '17. The Upper Yarra Valley gives the wine a finely honed elegance, casting a spell on the mouth. It's very long, and very fine. These three wines were tasted 1 week after bottling, hard on the wine, hard on the taster.