The wonderfully named The Bogan shiraz from Kaesler hails from 2 vineyards planted in 1899 (Marananga) and 1965 (Nuriootpa). As the name suggests, it's a full-bodied, sinewy Barossa shiraz of substantial clout. Dark plum and blackberry fruits, dredged deep with spice, licorice and dark chocolate. There's a sense of latent power and throaty, grainy tannins chug under the bonnet. Substantial.